History of European Fashion
In order to better understand the value of fashion for every woman in Central Europe it is important to take an overview in its history.
Considering its early debut in 1100-1200 we can spot the first main trends. Women of the French court were mainly the trend setters. The chemise and the ankle-to-floor tunic, also called gown or kirtle were their main clothing. The differences between the working class and the richer women were spotted on the length and the waist. At this time, we first attend the “two pieces” for women. Actually, it was a dress cut in two pieces, a fitted upper portion with a finely pleated skirt attached to a low waistband. For the period 1200-1300 we are facing a change in the style adopted on the clothes. Dresses for women were modest and restrained, assembling a uniform, also worn by men.
Since the early beginning of the 16th century, fashion is marked by voluminous clothing worn in an abundance of layers, a reaction to the cooling temperatures of the Little Ice Age, especially in Northern Europe. At the same time, the Hispanic court during Charles V empire and in general the royal courts, introduced the most glittering renaissance to the fashion industry. The tall, narrow lines of the latest period were replaced with a C were adopted massively. Sleeves were a center of attention, being puffed and turned back to reveal contrasting linings. Small geometric patterns and flowering embroidery made their first appearance. Moreover, we start attending contrasting fabrics, as silk, satin and velvet, as well as the inflow of silver, gold, red and yellow, for those who could afford them. Of course, each trend was adapted to regional variations.
The next century is mainly influenced by literature and the art of painting. Dresses appear to be more exotic, and those who were more contemporary were matched with scarves, mantles and jewels, added to evoke a
classic or romantic mood.
From the 19th century women's styles transitioned away from the classically influenced of Empires and Regencies. The fashion houses of Paris began to show a new S-curve silhouette, introducing the idea of a confident woman with full low chest, curvy hips and a thicker waist.
Later, in the beginning of the 20th century, we encounter the Oriental Opulence. More precisely, the silhouette became much more fluid and soft. Harem girls in flowing pantaloons, turbans, and vivid colors and geishas in exotic kimono were the main trends. It is also important that the first real fashion shows were organized during this period in time, by the first female couturier, Jeanne Paquin.
The 1920s is the decade in which fashion entered the modern era, while women were starting changing roles in society. Thus, they began to wear more comfortable clothes and even trousers. Although most of the women of a certain age continued to wear conservative dresses, the sportswear worn by forward-looking and younger women became the greatest change in post-war fashion. Low-waisted dresses with fullness at the hemline allowed women to literally kick up their heels in new dances like the Charleston.
Undergarments began to transform after World War I to conform to the ideals of a flatter chest and more boyish figure. The women's rights movement had a strong effect on women's fashions. Most importantly, the confining corset was discarded, replaced by a chemise or camisole and bloomers, later shortened to panties or knickers. For the first time in centuries, women's legs were seen with hemlines rising to the knee and dresses becoming more fitted. Thus, a more masculine look was starting to become popular. One of the first women to wear trousers, cut her hair and reject the corset was Coco Chanel, probably the most influential woman in fashion of the 20th century.
The most characteristic fashion trend until the end of World War II was attention at the shoulder with exaggerated shoulder pads. Fashion in the years following World War’s II austerity is characterized by the resurgence of haute couture. Square shoulders and short skirts were replaced by the soft femininity, with its sweeping longer skirts, fitted waist, and rounded shoulders, which in turn gave way to an unfitted, structural look in the later 1950s. At the same time, innovations in textile technology following the war resulted in new fabrics such as spandex, volleyball shorts and easy-care fabric finishes that fitted the suburban lifestyle of the 1950s. For the first time, teenagers became a force in fashion.
The 1960s featured several diverse trends, breaking many fashion traditions to mirror social movements during the time. In the middle of the decade, culottes, go-go boots, box-shaped dresses and PVC clothes were popular. At the same time, the widely popular bikini came into fashion, Mary Quant popularized the mini skirt and Jackie Kennedy introduced the pillbox hat, both becoming extremely popular. People were dressing in psychedelic prints, highlighter colors, and mismatched patterns. The hippie movement late in the decade also exerted a strong influence on ladies' clothing styles, including bell-bottom jeans, tie-dye, and batik fabrics.
1980s fashion had heavy emphasis on glamour. Expensive clothes and fashion accessories centered most of the attention. Women expressed an image of wealth and success through shiny costume jewelry, such as large faux-gold earrings, pearl necklaces, and clothing covered with sequins and diamonds. Moreover, power dressing was an emerging idea in the fashion industry. The prime time television show Dynasty, Joan Collins and Linda Evans, promoted the status of women being able to take control of themselves.
In the 1970s, more women were joining the work force, so, by the early 1980s, working women were no longer considered unusual. To proclaim themselves as equals in the job market, women started to dress more seriously at work. More and more of these women want to fit into the management level by trying to emulate men via fashion and outward appearance to appear more masculine and powerful.
At the same time, punk fashion began as a reaction against both the hippie movement of the past decades and the materialist values of the current decade. Moreover, the upcoming “status” of Minimalism made his first appearance. Later at that period, the New Romantic was a fashion movement influenced by punk attire that occurred primarily in British and Irish nightclubs as a backlash to council estates during the early and mid 1980s. The New Romantic style favored streaky bold eyeliner, spiked hair, clothing designs that referenced historic eras, and celebrations of glamour.
For the majority of the decade, 1990s fashion in Europe was defined by a return to minimalist fashion contrasted to the more elaborate and flashy trends of the 1980s. One notable shift in the western world was the mainstream adoption of tattoos and body piercings. Moreover, the popularity of grunge and alternative rock music helped bring the simple, unkempt grunge look into the mainstream. The anti-conformist approach to fashion led to the popularization of the casual chic look, including T-shirts, jeans, hoodies, and sneakers. Additionally, fashion trends throughout the decade recycled styles from previous decades, notably the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s.
Throughout the 1990s, supermodels dominated the fashion industry. Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Eva Herzigova, and Kate Moss were the most well payed names.
Around 1996, fashion started to take cues from the disco fashion of the mid–late 1970s. This included leather pants, halter tops, metallic clothing, crop tops, tube tops, maxi coats, maxi skirts, knee boots, and boot-cut dress pants. At the same time, major trends were military inspired clothing and the ultimate forever lasting little black dress.
2000s fashion is often described as being a "mash-up", where trends saw the fusion of previous styles, global and ethnic clothing as well as the fashions of numerous music-based subcultures. Hip-hop fashion generally was the most popular among young people, followed by the retro inspired indie look later in the decade. Globalization also influenced the decade's clothing trends. Furthermore, eco-friendly and ethical clothing, such as recycled fashions and fake fur, were prominent in the decade.
When the 2000s kicked off, the fashion was profoundly influenced by technology. From late 1999 until late 2001, there was a monochromatic futuristic approach to fashion, with metallic, shiny blacks, heavy use of gray, straps, and buckles becoming commonplace. This was called "Y2K fashion". The apparel was made to be as dark, reflective, technological, and as sexy as possible. Pants became lower waisted and significantly more flared than they were previously, and often featured elaborate embroidery. In 2008, there was a large scale 1980s revival, which incorporated general items the periods’ streetwear, such as neon colors, gladiator sandals, animal print, knitted sweater dresses, leggings, crop tops, babydolls, and bubble skirts.
The 2010s have thus far been defined by a revival of austerity era period pieces, hipster and alternative fashions, and extensive influence of the 90’s decades. Designers replicated original vintage clothing.
Many fashion trends were influenced from the early years of the decades 80s and 60s, such as the indie, neo-hippie and boho chic looks, which stayed in fashion until the 2015.
What seems interesting to us is how today’s fashion is formed and which are the most followed trends at the moment. We live in the era of weekly fashion, meaning that new trends can be captured, sketched, designed and sailed in a period of 2 weeks by the industry of fast fashion. Every day bloggers, trend setters, catwalks and fashion magazines inform us with the latest mast trends that we should adopt. Cuffed boyfriend jeans, colorful leggings, crop tops, thin turtlenecks popularized by The Kardashians, off the shoulder tops, sweater dresses, catsuits, jumpsuits, playsuits, as well as choker necklaces from the 1970s revival, tan or olive green duster coats, solid wedge heels, Stuart Weitzman knee boots and perspex heels, also known as the "nothing shoe". The brightly colored beige, red, green, brown and orange 70s revival fashions began to replace the grey and monochromatic 90s.
